Científico: “Los placeres de la mesa residen en la mente, no en la boca” esto enfurece a los chefs

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Muy poca gente toma jugo de tomate en sus casas. En cambio, casi un tercio de los pasajeros aéreos lo piden. Los sabores dulces se vuelven sosos en un avión, debido al ruido de fondo de entre 80 y 85 decibeles. En cambio, la percepción del sabor umami —uno de los cinco básicos, con el dulce, el ácido, el amargo y el salado— aumenta por ese mismo sonido. Y el tomate es rico en umami: de ahí que el 27% de las personas en vuelo lo prefieran en jugo, con o sin vodka.

Para el profesor de Psicología Experimental Charles Spence no tiene nada de raro que el oído determine una experiencia gustativa. “Los placeres de la mesa residen en la mente, no en la boca”, escribió en su polémico libro Gastrophysics (Gastrofísica), que ha molestado a muchos merecedores de estrellas Michelin. “La comida habla por sí sola”, es el lema de los directores de cocina.

Pero otros, como el famoso chef Ferran Adrià, del mítico restaurante catalán elBulli, lo han alabado: “No hay mucha gente más preparada de Charles Spence para comprender la importancia de los sentidos”, escribió sobre este libro que habla de cuánto hacen la vista, el oído, el olfato y el tacto, además del gusto, para que un plato sea o no agradable; y cuánto intervienen factores aún más ajenos a la cocina, como las expectativas, la compañía y la memoria.

Spence ofreció el ejemplo de morder un durazno maduro fresco. “El cerebro tiene que unir el olor fragante, el sabor, la textura, el color, el sonido de los dientes que penetran en la pulpa jugosa, por no hablar de la sensación de pelusa del durazno en la mano y en la boca. Todas estas pistas, junto con los recuerdos, contribuyen al sabor mismo mucho más de lo que creeríamos. Y todo se une en el cerebro”.

Gastrophysics argumenta que existe una miríada de cuestiones que convierten el mero mordisco de un durazno en “una experiencia multisensorial increíblemente compleja”.

“Comprendamos eso bien y pronto estará claro por qué la cocina, más allá de la exquisitez de su ejecución, sólo puede llegar a un punto. Uno necesita comprender el papel del ‘todo lo demás’ para determinar qué hace realmente que la comida y la bebida sean tan placenteras, estimulantes y —sobre todo— memorables”, escribió el especialista.

Spence está a cargo del Laboratorio de Investigación Intermodal de la Universidad de Oxford y es consultor de empresas como Toyota e ICI sobre marca, diseño y envasado multisensorial. Como resultado de sus investigaciones definió  la gastrofísica como “el estudio científico de los factores que influyen en nuestra experiencia cuando probamos comidas y bebidas”.

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